When you see a pool of water on the bathroom floor by the cabinet or inside the bathroom cabinet, it means you have that dreaded circumstance you may have Googled before: "leaking pipe under bathroom sink." The first thing to do is turn off the hot and cold water valves under the sink. Next, you may be thinking you're going to have to call a plumber. Well, if you're handy with simple tools, this guide to troubleshooting bathroom-pipe leaks may save you a plumbing service call.
DIAGNOSE THE SOURCE
The first step in repairing that "leaking pipe under bathroom sink" is locating the leak. There are six possible sources: the hot- and cold-water shut-off valves, the hot- and cold-water hose connections, the drain assembly, and the P-trap.
SHUT-OFF VALVES LEAK
Leaky hot- and cold-water shut-off valves must be replaced. You'll need to turn off the water main. Shut-off valves are either soldered on, which requires a plumber to fix, or screwed on with a compression fitting. If it's screwed on, simply purchase a new valve and replace it.
WATER-HOSE LEAK
If the dreaded "leaking pipe under bathroom sink" is one of the hot- and cold-water hoses, it may be possible to troubleshoot the leak yourself. Use a pair of pliers to tighten the connection. If that doesn't work, unscrew the hose and see if the gasket is worn and needs to be replaced.
DRAIN LEAK
Drain-assembly leaks are the most difficult to repair and will likely require you to call your plumber. To fix this type of "leaking pipe under bathroom sink," the P-trap is removed first and then the drain is removed. Wrap the drain threads with plumber's tape and reinstall the drain and P-trap.
P-TRAP LEAK
The P-trap is the curved-shaped pipe beneath the drain. Two compression nuts hold the P-trap together. If the leak is coming from one of the nuts, tighten it by hand, and if that doesn't work, use pliers to tighten the nut.
If you need a professional plumber for that "leaking pipe under bathroom sink," contact Dan at Arroyo Handyman & Plumbing
Plumbing snakes are lengths of tightly wound wire that are highly flexible so they can go around those sharp 90-degree bends in drain lines (Photo 4). A 15- to 20-footer that’s 1/4 in. thick will handle most household needs. They’re available at all hardware stores and home centers.
While the plunger is a 10-minute solution, expect the plumber’s snake to take 20 to 30 minutes. You’ll have to remove the P-trap under the sink first, then shove the snake down the drain, spinning it around corners and into clogs. The corkscrew tip grabs obstructions so you can pull them out. Follow these snaking guidelines:
- Uncoil the snake and lay it out straight. Otherwise it’ll suddenly spring out when you release the coil.
- Shove the snake firmly into the drain and twist it at the same time to get around tough corners.
- Turn the snake clockwise when you feel resistance so it winds into obstructions. Then pull back slightly. If you feel resistance, you’ve hooked into something. Pull it out.
- If the snake continues to make progress (extend deeper into the drain) stick with it. It’ll slowly chew through tough stuff. You won’t know for sure that you’ve solved the problem until you reassemble the drain and run water through it. So run the snake in as far as you can.
- Drains are dirty. Wipe the goop off the plumber’s snake with a rag as you pull it out.
After clearing the clog, reassemble the P-trap. Slide new washers under the slip nuts on metal traps to avoid leaks. If the trap is old and rickety, replace it with a new one while you’re at it.
If your toilet flushes slowly, the rinse holes under the rim may be clogged with mineral deposits. Use a hand mirror to see the holes under the rim of the toilet. Bend a coat hanger flat and probe the tip into the holes to poke out any deposits. You can clean out those clogged holes without ever getting your hands dirty.
